A windfall of wonderful Wellington chenins. That’s what came my way, recently and unexpectedly. They offered pleasing proof of exciting chenin blancs and chenin-based blends flowing from the region, while an armchair exploration of valley farms confirmed the existence of an impressive number of old bush chenin vines.
It started when I mentioned I was sorry I couldn’t make the Wellington harvest festival, as I had been hoping to try the local chenins and other whites. Thanks to communication between publicist Marlene Truter and Wellington Wine Route’s Trudy Oosthuizen, the chenins found their way to me…
With the Stormers dominating local rugby headlines, it seems only right to start with the impressive 2008 chenin (R85) from Welbedacht, property of Schalk Burger and sons. The first element – and one which characterised every wine that was sampled and shared – was the enjoyment provided. While not easy to pinpoint, they offered appealing drinkability, a good balance of fruit, wood and acidity that never overwhelmed in intensity.
A single block of 35-year-old bush vines provided the grapes for this vintage which proves that the Burger whites can hold their own alongside the dominant award-winning reds. Those looking for a light-hearted unwooded aperitif with honeyed fruit should try the farm’s Meerkat chenin (R35 ex-cellar) – one of only two whites in this fun third tier. Schalk Burger sr started producing his own wines in his new cellar in 2005, establishing an enviable record of quality and diversity in six short years.
From one of the oldest farms in the valley of wagonmakers Nabygelegen, established in 1712 and acquired by James McKenzie early in the new century, come small quantities of well-received red and white wines. The barrel-fermented ’09 chenin (R55 from farm), produced from berries from 70- year-old vines and aged in old French oak for 12 months, is worth hunting down. The 2010 vintage of Lady Anna, a blend of 75 percent chenin, lent flint from 15 percent sauvignon and satin from 10 percent semillon, is both elegant and complex wine and a bargain buy – I was quoted R40 ex-farm.
Alex and Sheila Camerer bought Welgegund, 50ha tucked into the foothills of the Hawequa mountains, in 1987. Major restoration followed and today their boutique winery is producing a few fascinating labels, with the promise of more to come. While former MP Sheila Camerer presently resides in eastern Europe as South African ambassador to Bulgaria, son Simon oversees the farm from Gauteng. Cellarmaster and vineyard manager Daniel Langenhoven is responsible for the Chiara 2009 (R60 ex-cellar) a maiden chenin-based blend that – thanks to addition of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and a little viognier – presents a complex palate of flavours, minerality, fruit and wood plus a long finish, that well deserves its 4½ stars from Platter.
The only chenin not screwcapped in this Wellington roundup was the 2009 Carpe Diem (R89) from Diemersfontein, another delectable and well-balanced wine where fruit salad is kept in check by backbone from wood and acidity. Grapes from three vineyards add to complexity, and 35 percent was fermented in new French oak. If you need proof that this cellar should be known for more than people’s pinotage, this wine should do it.
In the Bovlei area, the Bosman family on Lelienfontein farm is quietly making its mark in various aspects of viticulture, from environmental to social upliftment. Again, production of red wines dominate, but the Optenhorst chenin 2009 (R165 ex-farm) is another fine example of intense flavours obtained from bush vines approaching their 60th birthday.
Here honeyed nuttiness added to fruit, complexity from nine months in barrel and six months in bottle are surely reasons it secured a place in the Top 100 SA wines.
No-nonsense and unwooded, the Douglas Green Vineyard Creations chenin 2010 (R35) was rated Best Value winner in Wine magazine’s current Chenin Blanc Challenge. Unfettered fruit – melon, passion fruit and apricot – combine companionably in a crisp refreshing wine. - Weekend Argus