Laborie – the pearl of Paarl

Published Mar 29, 2011

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Don’t miss out on one of the Boland’s most charming destinations above Paarl’s long main road. Make a point of turning off to the Laborie estate and savour hours of pleasure in an historic, serene and verdant setting.

Brilliant bubblies, followed by formal fare or delectable chardonnays paired with a posh picnic? A cellar tour, perhaps, a food and wine pairing, followed by a night in a luxurious suite favoured by royalty? Decision-making is the difficult part.

Given its unique position on the slopes of the great granite rock, this 17th century farm is also part of the town of Paarl. Gracious, gabled and well-restored, the Laborie manor house is a fine classic example of an H-shaped Cape Dutch farmstead.

It was founded by a prosperous French Huguenot family, the Tailleferts, who developed the land from the mountainside to the Berg River, making wine that was “the best in the colony and similar to our small wines of Champagne”, according to early French traveller François Lequat in his travel tales published in 1708. The De Villiers and Louw families have also left their mark at Laborie, as generations thrived – and sometimes struggled – to grow grapes and make wine.

When the phylloxera epidemic of 1885 struck, Laborie’s owners were reduced to growing watermelons and selling them at the Green Point Common, but slowly the tide turned as the industry recovered during the last century.

Today Laborie Wine estate has 30 hectares under vine. Chardonnay dominates, and there’s pinot noir, sauvignon blanc and shiraz.

Estate manager and viticulturist Cobus van Graan exudes enthusiasm and determination to make Laborie’s quality wines better known – and his air of purpose is duplicated by staff in vineyard and cellar, restaurant and tasting room.

Having uprooted unsuitable cultivars and planted what thrives on mountain slopes, Cobus and his winemaker now focus on production – the range of stellar bubblies, superior shiraz, and the alambic brandy which was named best in the world at the prestigious International Wine & Spirits contest last year.

Laborie’s restaurant offers both al fresco and formal areas, and presents a substantial menu. Plans for expansion here include the addition of a cigar and wine lounge. The tasting room already caters for cosy winter visits, with a balcony offering views of vines. Future development will see a venue that celebrates the estate’s Cap Classiques in a suitably starry setting.

When tasting, most start with these sparkling wines, after which choices need to be made, as there are several whites, reds and an unusual highly-rated dessert wine , as well as the brandy.

The trio of shiraz is not to be missed – along with the four-star award-winner Jean Taillefert, there’s a shiraz with more than a splash of tannat which adds definition and Basque charm.

While not regarded as flagship wines, I recommend you try the chardonnays. The Limited Collection 2009 is a stunner, with an abundance of citrus balanced by nutty aromas that can take on gourmet seafood and poultry dishes, both occidental and oriental, with panache. It’s a steal at R65.

Not many locals know that Laborie offers a number of luxurious, tastefully appointed suites for bed-and-breakfast visits – popular when the estate is hosting weddings and conferences.

Former farm buildings have been renovated and developed into eight suites plus a special one in the manor house, reserved for royalty, VIPs – and for our TGW prizewinners and partners.

There’s a new attraction at Laborie, which has proved popular with locals and city-dwellers. The Saturday morning market sells delicious bakes, coffees, cheese, olives, honey, classy charcuterie and more. There are art and craft stalls, and the gardens have become weekend meeting places for family and friends – stock up, then chill with a glass of wine and picnic brunch.

One of the true pearls of Paarl, Laborie caters as happily for informal tastings and cheese platters to weekend weddings with a cast of hundreds. - Weekend Argus

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