It helps to have a sense of humour - and a ready supply of beer - in Iceland. We all know about their economic crisis and that volcano. "You mess with Iceland? We shut down all your airports," the locals comment, always with an ashen (sorry, couldn't resist it) expression.
But, much more importantly, consider the extremes. During summer, residents are treated to 24 hours of sunlight. And in winter? "It's dark 24 hours a day here. That's why we drink so much," our Icelandic guide, Aaron, comments.
Given their high level of alcohol consumption, it's hardly surprising to discover that many Icelanders believe in elves (really, promise). Certain roads have even been rerouted to avoid disturbing areas where elves are thought to live.
But, generally speaking, steering clear of elves is not a concern of ours; we have come to drive off-road. In the mother of all off-road vehicles. Specifically, a convoy of specially modified Hilux bakkies, including the Seriously Famous Hilux that travelled to the North Pole at the hands of (gasp) Top Gear's Jeremy Clarkson.
It's all about celebrating the 40th birthday of the Hilux in South Africa. And what a birthday party we're about to have. We are going to travel to the foot of that volcano (it's called Eyjafjallajökull; Icelanders say it was named by a person who fell asleep on his keyboard).
We're also going to traverse the Vatnajökull glacier, which measures more than 8300km² (we won't cross the whole thing, clearly).
But first we travel to Arctic Trucks, which is where these magnificent off-road vehicles are built. The company takes standard Hilux bakkies and, 45 to 55 hours later, they are transformed from mundane to magnificent.
A number of modifications are done but, in the case of the standard and most basic AT35 derivative, the process begins with removing parts (such as front fenders and wheels).
Then the technicians go to work on the suspension/drivetrain, body and frame to make space for the larger (35") tyres. The three-litre, common-rail turbodiesel remains relatively untouched, by the way.
Then it's time to re-assemble the Hilux, fitting larger fender flairs, bigger tyres and wheels in the process. The entire modification costs a little more than €10 000 (about R94 000).
While its business nose-dived in 2009 last year (as did the economy of the country in general), Arctic Trucks is world-famous for offering drivers a luxurious and comfortable option to the Sno-Cat.
Its vehicles have not only graced the screen of Top Gear, they're also in use throughout Iceland and Antarctica.
WORLD LEADER
Arctic Trucks will be working with Toyota SA to build six Hiluxes for Antarctica in 2010; there's also talk of these vehicles becoming commercially available in South Africa locally.
While owners and management team underplay their successes, it is widely acknowledged that Arctic Trucks is a world leader in its field.
Heading off-road only served to confirm this opinion. In fact, the Arctic Truck Hiluxes are so capable that they make pretty much any off-road drive look like a Sunday School outing.
Our first significant port of call was Eyjafjallajökull, and we tackled this leg of the journey in what the chaps at Arctic Trucks call the AT44 (so named because of its monster 44" tyres).
It's a nightmare to drive on a tar road, especially between 60 and 80km/h - you have to wrestle with the steering wheel, which judders viciously from left to right.
But, take it offroad and this Hilux truly comes into its own. It has so much ground clearance you feel can conquer absolutely anything. It's so big it feels more than capable of driving over a Corolla or two. Maybe you'd have to downshift but, other than that, no worries.
WHAT VOLCANO?
The actual volcano is a bit of a letdown. It looks like, well, er, nothing. No grey ash or torrents of lava. Neither a hiss nor a gurgle. And the 44" Hilux isn't even slightly challenged by the rocks, rivers and dongas that we drive through.
The next day turns out to be quite different. It's time to tackle the glacier and this time we're in the one and only Top Gear bakkie.
The fascia of this Hilux, which is shod with 38" rubber, looks like it has been mauled by a rabid Arctic fox; it's full of gaping holes where the television equipment was installed. Other than that, it's similar to the 44" model - and we're fairly comfortable in the near-standard interior.
At first, driving on the glacier doesn't appear too challenging, although we're constantly warned about crevasse (giant cracks in the glacier), which are supposedly hugely dangerous.
Aaron repeatedly warns: "You can disappear in one of those; so can your Hilux. They are life threatening. Stay in the tracks of the lead vehicle and never, ever, get out of your Hilux and wander off. We don't want any fatalities."
'WE HAVE WINCH'
I think he's being hysterical about nothing - driving on the glacier is like driving on a hard sand road. Sure, we spy a crevasse or two - but they look as harmless as an Icelandic sheepdog.
Then I do it. I drive slap bang into a crevasse.
My colleagues are panic-stricken; they jump out of the vehicle and run away shrieking in horror. I get on the radio and plead for help, which arrives immediately - I am winched out of the crevasse and do not plunge dramatically to my death.
As the AT44 drives past, one of the locals sticks his head out of the window. "So. The 38" Hilux has speed. You pass us. That is good. But we have winch," he notes.
As I mentioned, it helps to have a sense of humour in Iceland. It also helps to have a vehicle that can get you pretty much anywhere. Like a Hilux. - INL Motoring