Flying north from Pemba in northern Mozambique over the pristine Quirimbas Archipelago National Park, we marvelled at the mirror-like, multi-hued waters surrounding green dots of mangrove and coconut edged by coral and white sands.
All of this overarched by an impossibly blue sky with puffs of white cloud, the wind providing just enough to fill the sails of the dhows and cool the fishermen poling dugouts among the shallow reefs. Even from 10 000 feet I could glimpse schools of fish and pods of dolphins.
We descended towards the 8x3km island and the waving Jason and Karen du Plessis, Matemo Island managers, alongside their friendly staff and cheerfully painted open bus.
This is a pretty remote spot and therefore the resort has generator power and a desalination plant for fresh water. It’s pretty exclusive too – beautifully appointed, with 24 palm-roofed chalets planted on the gleaming sand. We were beaming – paradise found.
A quick debrief from Karen, an even quicker change and we were in the warm, uncommonly clear water a coconut’s throw from the chalet. The coral bommies (reef outcrops) around the island offer fantastic snorkelling and diving and a host of new dive sites in these protected waters are only now beginning to be explored.
There is a dazzling array of fish amid untouched coral and hopping on a kayak with snorkel and mask to explore the waters is recommended. If you’re wanting a bit more zip then sailing, windsurfing, water skiing and tubing are on offer too.
Island fever had struck us, however, and we were gearing down – freewheeling actually – towards a fantastic sunset from the appropriately positioned bar with an appropriate drink from the excellent barman. Perfect. Dinner under the stars did not disappoint either. Lobster, grouper and prawns perfectly prepared.
Recollecting that evening, I remembered somebody had warned me I might get a little wet during my stay. Well, I may as well have dived into the sea. How so? We awoke in the wee hours to lightning, thunder, torrential rain and gale force winds. Unexpected but exhilarating.
The hammock I had lazed in on my chalet veranda was now a twisted sail and my outdoor shower a hit and miss affair as the water gusted horizontally. Nonetheless it was wildly beautiful and still warm and, when the rain abated, I discovered that the beautiful bay around the corner had but a balmy breeze.
It also had a large motor launch that had beached on the high tide and a yacht at anchor offshore, passengers having waded ashore and stranded themselves at the bar until the weather subsided and the tide came in.
We were not to be so confined. “Sit here,” I said to my partner, indicating what I considered to be a reasonably sheltered seat amid ships and handing her a towel in case of spray as we set off for nearby historic Ibo island.
Into the teeth of the wind we went, the towels quickly redundant as we bashed through the chop. It was rather like surfing fully clothed – and not entirely unenjoyable.
Ibo Island, one of the first outposts of the colonisation of Mozambique, exemplifies the melting pot of Arabian, European and African influences in the Quirimbas.
It is well worth a visit, both to discover the dark slave trading history as you explore the 18th century Portuguese fort, as well as for the beautiful, fine, handcrafted silver jewellery and hats and bags made from dried flowers. Exquisite wares – and great bargains.
After sluicing off the brine I encountered something else exquisite. I’ve experienced Thai, Hawaian Transformational and various other massage therapies, but nothing to top what resident therapist Sharon Davies provides.
I joined the list of guests in beatific dazes as I meandered dreamily back to the resort along the water’s edge at sunset, the wind having eased, admiring the patterning on the sand from the myriad of hermit crabs, listening to the rustling palms, lapping waters and drinking in this atmosphere, willing the paradise I’d found to stay within me forever. - Sunday Tribune
If You Go...
l Contact Rani Resorts on 011 658 0633 or 0861 77RANI, e-mail [email protected], or visit www.raniresorts.com to see what is in store.
Kudos to Airlink for superior service – we were impressed. If you live in the Durban area close to Pinetown, Hillcrest or Kloof, try Pietermaritzburg. Airlink flies from Pietermaritzburg Airport to Johannesburg daily, which is a breeze. It is easily accessible, less congested with easy parking, quick boarding and disembarking. Only Airlink offer direct flights to flights to Pemba in Northern Mozambique, on Wednesdays and Saturdays departing Johannesburg at 11.10am arriving in Pemba at 2pm and departing Pemba at 2.30pm arriving in Johannesburg at 5.25pm. Book your flight direct on www.flyairlink.com, contact your travel agent or Airlink at Pietermaritzburg Airport on 033 386 9286/7.
Spread your wings – fly Airlink.
CFA Air Charters offers regular flights within the whole of Southern Africa and in Mozambique, specialising in island and lodge transfers. CFA have branches in Maputo, Vilanculos and Pemba and have introduced new regular flights in northern Mozambique.
The first links Dar es Salaam to Mocimboa da Praia and then on to the Quirimbas Islands. The second links Lugenda (Niassa) to the islands, providing an ideal bush and beach holiday package. With CFA, the sky has no limits. Contact [email protected], call 011 312 0196 or visit www.cfa.co.za