Egypt had always been one of my dream destinations so I was delighted to receive an invitation to spend six days on a live-aboard dive boat as a guest of Wild and Blu Travels. We flew into Cairo, then on to Sharm-el-Sheikh before we boarded the Coral Princess - our live-aboard.
Off into the sunset we gaily sailed (the sun only sets at 8pm), but sadly, after supper, breakfast and a few fruit cocktails the next day, I realised that my stomach was not feeling at all good. Out came the Imodiums, but all to no avail. I spent the next day embracing the toilets and hosepipes.
The hosepipes are used to carry out Instinjaa. This is a process used by Muslims the world over where you use water to cleanse the nether regions after a visit to the bogs.
Being a Muslim, it didn't shock me at all but someone on our boat only used the loo after three days because he didn't know how to use the lever on the hosepipe.
Now, I know that you are picturing a big green hosepipe, but these are mini versions and you control the water with a lever. It's not rocket science but if you not used to using something like it, you might be a bit apprehensive.
Despite my tummy troubles, I was eager to get into the water. The Red Sea is considered the Mecca for scuba enthusiasts the world over, being one of very few dive sites in the world where visibility between of about 15-20 m can be found at least 30 meters below the surface.
Along with a 25-28 degree water temperature, this creates awesome diving conditions, consistent almost year-round.
We travelled a few kilometres out to sea before anchoring at our first dive-site.
Since I had not dived before, I sat out the first few or snorkelled while the others were underwater. Snorkelling here is perfect because of the great visibility so one gets to see quite a bit from the top.
The tropical coral is also perfectly preserved in this area and experts say the it may even have improved in the last decade.
On the dive you are surrounded by different kinds of fish but they are mostly between five and 10 meters below the surface - not ideal for divers, but the coral and clear blue waters makes up for that.
Under the Red Sea, are dozens of shipwrecks which are now used for wreck-diving. Sites like the famous Dunraven and Thistlegorm shipwrecks makes this diving a unique and ideal experience.
Two dive instructors, of which one is South African, are on hand to make sure you experience the best the sites have to offer.
Instructors are fully qualified and safety is paramount on the boat. I was only allowed to dive with the tour director, Safwat Makeen, but his experience got rid of at least half my nerves.
Makeen gave me a dive-theory class to prepare me, but frankly it scared me witless. "Buoyancy control, nitrox, octopus" (not the one in the sea) and a whole range of scuba diving jargon became words that I learnt to toss around in conversation after my lesson. Now I knew what they meant but could I actually dive?
That was the big question. I put on the gear and could barely hold myself up. I had weights strapped to my waist, oxygen tanks on my back and then the octopus stuck in my mouth for oxygen. I felt like I had another person strapped to my body and I was certain I would sink all the way to the bottom and disappear.
Nevertheless, I am a fearless sports reporter and I would conquer the Red Sea before I left. In I went and I waited to sink, but I didn't.
I could hear a few cheers and screams from some of the people on the boat and then we disappeared into the big blue ocean. After confusing some of the underwater hand signals, I managed to tell Makeen that I was having a problem with my ear - I couldn't equalise! What if my eardrums burst? I had a million thoughts running through my mind.
We were on our way back up when my ear popped and I was ready to go.
I took a few deep breaths and the panic disappeared. We descended slowly and suddenly I felt the calmest I ever have in my life.
There were so many different types of fish and coral around us. I couldn't believe my eyes. The kaleidoscope of colours was so overwhelming.
We saw fish of all shapes and sizes and the most beautiful coral reefs.
Makeen had chosen a simple site for us to dive and half an hour later it was all over. I was totally at a loss for words when we resurfaced. And to add to all that, I had a camera stuck in my face when I came up.
I was interviewed by a TV crew. Not only was I making my scuba diving debut but also my TV debut - along with double my weight strapped to me in gear - not my most graceful moment I tell you!
"Amazing, fantastic, beautiful, like wow" - was all I could say to the camera but the crew were divers so they completely understood that I was just in awe and I stayed that way for most of the day. I moved to the deck and fell asleep with the wind blowing gently and the sun toasting me. I have never been so relaxed in my life. Never.
I was told that the nitrogen in my blood from the dive would tire me but that was probably the best sleep I have ever had. I got used to the fish in the giant swimming pool and went swimming and snorkelling with them a few times a day for the rest of the trip.
One of the most exciting moments came when we were snorkelling and spotted a baby reef shark swimming three meters below us.
Other sites on offer include Ras Mohammed, Small Crack, Thomas reef, Jackson's reef and a few others off the coast of Tehran Islands.
Owing to its strategic placement between Egypt and Israel, the United Nations use the islands for their peace-keeping forces. Because of this, nobody is allowed on the islands but the diving around there is completely safe. The trip couples a great combination of dive sites with a whirlwind tour of the country.
Our package included one day in Sharm-el-sheik, one day in Dhahab and the final day in Cairo.
Sharm-el-sheikh is a tourist town and looks more like a construction site at the moment with the amount of hotel development going on in the area.
On offer along the coast of Na'maa Bay in Sharm-el-sheikh one will find casinos, which the locals are not allowed into, as well as hundreds of stalls and restaurants.
The area also offers tourist a vibrant nightlife with places like Hard Rock Café, Ministry of Sound and a few other nightclubs open in the area.
Sharm is very much asleep during the day and comes alive at night - largely due to the 38-40 degree heat in summer.
The old market can be found in Sharm as well but that's as close as you can get to true Egyptian culture in the area. That said, the market is great for stopping for a bite to eat while doing some shopping.
If you're looking to experience ancient Egyptian culture at its best, the little Bedouin town of Dhahab is ideal.
The town is surrounded by mountains and looks most beautiful at sunset when the rays of the setting sun fall against the mountain and blue sea.
Here too there is great nightlife on offer, but of a more traditional kind with bellydancing classics belting out of the nightclubs. Shopping can be done until late into the evening and lovely little eastern restaurants stay open for after-shopping meals.
It's simply breathtaking
The view from the beach area is spectacular with the bright lights of Saudi Arabia in the distance.
There are also some great dive opportunities in the town with the biggest attractions being the Blue Hole. With a 203 metre drop it offers one of the most beautiful and most dangerous dives in the world.
An ordinary dive would take you just over the entrance of the hole but many have ventured in and not returned.
It was an exciting end to the diving end of the trip nonetheless.
I loved that I could go walkabout at night because Egypt is such a safe country. Nevermind the fact that Dhahab was bombed last April.
There is no evidence of a bombing attack in the city and the people have almost forgotten that such an attack had ever happened there. I tried raising the issue with a few of the locals but it was a futile exercise. Makeen and others I spoke to just brushed it off and said that they would rather not comment on the issue. There are police everywhere!
My funniest moment came when I tried getting directions from two policemen. Neither of them could speak English, but they insisted on helping me. We stood at one corner for about 15 minutes before I just walked away - in the wrong direction.
I walked about the town, trying my best to blend and it didn't take much. I looked just like them. The eyes, the complexion and the hair but I can only say a few word in Arabic. "Asalaamu Alaikum," I'd say and then they would start rambling on in their mother-tongue before they noticed my blank stare.
"You from where?" they would ask. As soon as I told them that I was from South Africa, they would shout: "Bafana Bafana!" Well, um, ja.
I shopped 'til ... well, until I needed a toilet break but I managed to get loads of gifts and I did enough shopping to keep me broke for the rest of the month.
As if that wasn't enough already, there was still Cairo to come. I fell in love with the city a soon as the plane landed.
Cairo looks very much like Johannesburg did a few years ago, with run down buildings and a heavy traffic problem. Millions of people flock to the city daily and the congestion is unbelievable.
On the outskirts of the city the Pyramids and Sphinx can be found.We ventured out to the Pyramids at about midday and I stood there with my jaw on the floor and had to be practically dragged away from them.
Along with our guide, Sameh, we decided that the best explanation would be that Aliens built them. I told Sameh that my mother's family come from a tribe in Yemen and found out that his mother's family did too.
I found a relative in Egypt and a looker too! That's never a bad thing. The Sphinx was pale in comparison but a sight to behold nonetheless.
The two landmarks overlook an old castle and an ancient king's golf course. Before we left, we ducked into the Museum of Cairo hoping to see some mummies but we had no such luck.
We were too late for the mummies room and had to settle for little artifacts found in the caves of Tutankhamun and other royalty. I was disappointed that we didn't get to see more but I ecstatic about the experience on the whole.
I was sad to leave but I missed home a little. At least I can tick Egypt on my list of places to visit. If you haven't then I suggest you get there quickly. I already have plans to go back.
If you go...
- Visa and passport: South African nationals need a passport valid for two months beyond the period of intended stay, and a visa for travel to Egypt.
- Onboard: Divers need to produce a license and have their own equipment.
- Currency: The Egyptian pound but US dollars are accepted in most places.
- Egyptian Embassy: (012) 343 1590/1
- Wild & Blu Travel:
Phone: 0861-101 945
Cell: 083 785 6818
(011) 8804126/7/8/9
Cape Town:
(021) 461-8056/7/8/9
Durban:
(031) 202-9227/8
- Nazli Thomas was a guest of Wild & Blu Travel and Egyptair.