Not many people have heard of Klaasvoogds – certainly not in Gauteng – but when visitors stumble into it, they don’t want to leave.
Enclosed by the Langeberg and Riviersonderend mountains, it is a place where locals and international visitors have carved themselves a lifestyle unmatched in other parts of the country.
Pretoria-based Charles Barnard and his partner Jane Sussens discovered the valley and he bought a home there. Then Texans Susan Cashin and her husband Michael McCullough, fell in love with Klaasvoogds in 2000, bought a home the following year and subsequently relocated permanently in 2007.
Karl and Sandra Uwe Papesch, a German couple, opened a guest house and a restaurant there after countless visits to South Africa.
Fraai Uitzicht has since become internationally famous for its fine fare and has been featured in the BBC Lifestyle series, Cooked which stars Justin Bonello. In addition it has won various awards.
Dutch-born Fokelien Wijngaarden and her partner Jan Korneef, settled there in 2010 after visiting South Africa “many times”. So have numerous other couples from Britain, Belgium and Scandinavia. It’s a place, which once discovered, people linger there for ever.
Jane Sussens is a case in point. When she and Charles first visited the valley they were enchanted by the surroundings – the mountains, the crystal clear river, the vineyards and wineries, the orchards and the paddocks.
In 2009, Charles bought a cottage with vineyards, now their regular escapist haunt. When not using the property themselves, they lease it to guests on a self-catering basis.
“What made our hearts sing when we first looked at our property in Klaasvoogds was the beautiful setting,” Jane says. “The light in the valley has a lovely quality. The stars are brilliant at night and skies a gentle blue by day. But what we find utterly captivating is that it is so rural with tractors and small trailers heaped high with fruit that come chugging past, taking us back to the sixties.
“We feel safe in Klaasvoogds. We live fearful lives in big cities so it is wonderful to walk wherever we want, during the day or at night, and to sleep on our porch after dark. And, after we moved here, we discovered just how warm and friendly everyone in the valley is.”
Jane and Charles live less than a kilometre from Fraai Uitzicht, the German-owned restaurant known for its superb fare. It’s a favourite haunt of the couple.
Their immediate neighbour is the Kranskop wine estate, one of more than 50 in the area. Then there are homemade cheeses, organic pork, locally produced olive oil, artisanal bread and an Afrikaans charcuterie in nearby Robertson.
“It’s food heaven,” Jane says.
Fraai Uitzicht is owned by Karl Uwe Papesch and his wife, Sandra who bought a home at Klaasvoogds five years ago, soon after the birth in Berlin of their daughter, Mo Anouk. They also have a son, Tom Carlo, born in Worcester in 2008.
Karl, a former banker, and his wife fell in love with the region on one of many visits to South Africa.
“We felt very much at home with the people,” he says. “We wanted a change in lifestyle, and this was so completely different from what we were used to in Germany. We realised it would take time to adjust and reasoned we would stay three years. We’ve been here five now – and don’t plan to leave.”
Karl knew he would soon be bored if he had nothing to do so he and Sandra opted to start a restaurant and guest house, which now draws guests from around the world.
Dutch couple, Fokelien Wijngaarden and her partner, Jan Kornneef, were frequent visitors to the area before returning to build a home. They love the open spaces, the magnificent views, the great weather and the “very friendly” people.
“We’ve travelled a lot and been nearly everywhere in the world but this is home,” Fokelien says.
As enthusiastic are Americans Susan Cashin and husband Michael McCullough, now a consultant in agriculture and education.
The couple visited the valley in 2000 and returned reluctantly to the US. A year later, an estate agent called with news of a property they might like to buy and they decided to “go for it”.
Because of work commitments, it was only in 2002 that Susan was able to return to South Africa to view what was to become their home. Just five days after arriving at the farm, she slipped and broke her ankle. Alone on the floor, with no cellphone service, she dragged herself across the floor on her bottom to reach the land line. Her agent’s son, took her to a doctor in Robertson who confirmed that she had broken her ankle and would need surgery.
It was then that she came to realise the extent of her neighbours’ kindliness.
She says that on the day of the surgery, as she was coming round from a deep sleep, a strapping man appeared at her bedside with a little girl in his arms. It was Dawid Smit and his younger daughter Engela. His first words were: “Why didn’t you call me?”
“Dawid is a farmer in our valley and he seemed almost offended I hadn’t turned to him, but I knew he was in the midst of harvest and I hadn’t wanted to bother him,” Susan says.
Dawid and his wife, Annette, insisted Susan recuperate at their home for the next six weeks. It was a time when she got to know the family well. They lavished love and care on her until she was well enough to manage on her own.
“There is a culture in rural South Africa that no longer exists anywhere else,” she says. “I was showered with care, kindness and open heartedness.
“With ‘baie dankie’ about the extent of my Afrikaans, Dawid and Annette always spoke English in my presence. Little Engela would come to my room each morning with her Afrikaans/English picture dictionary and attempt to teach me Afrikaans. She had not learnt English yet, but after six weeks she had absorbed the language like a sponge and was fluent when I finally left there.”
Susan says the US health-care system has much to learn from the doctors and nursing sisters who cared for her in Worcester.
“We may have the best medical technology in the States but we seem to have lost that personal touch that still exists here. The skills of health care professionals here are tops.”
Most of all, she has come to admire the Afrikaans culture. She sees the Afrikaans sense of community as a particular blessing. Be they white or brown, Afrikaners are “warm, open and delightful”. - The Star
Things to do in the area:
l Klaasvoogds Cottage: Rates vary from R300 mid week to R475 per person per night at weekends and public holidays. For more information, e-mail: [email protected] or call 023 626 3200, cell 072 359 2926, or visit www.klaasvoogdscottage.co.za
l Fraai Uitzicht Restaurant (also a guest house): E-mail [email protected], call 023 626 6156 or see www.fraaiuitzicht.com
l Walk or cycle along picturesque country roads through orchards and vineyards. Try these trails:
m Fish Eagle Trail: This is an 8.5km walking trail starting on the Van Loveren wine estate, crossing the Breede River and climbing up Rooikrans, with breathtaking views of the valley. Call 023 615 1505.
m Bloupunt Trail: A 15.6km circular hiking route taking roughly 6-9 hours with great views over five towns. Call 023 614 2471.
l Rock Climbing: Try various mountain and rock climbs, both for beginners and experts. 023 614 2532.
l Take a guided tour of the Klaas Voogds Game Reserve, visit the Pat Busch Nature Reserve: (call 023 626 2033 for a nature or 4x4 trail) or visit Dassieshoek Nature Reserve (call 023 626 3112) for a spectacular mountain walk.
l Go fishing or rafting on the Breede River. Rafting Route 62: 023 626 1280.
l River cruises on the Breede River: 082 759 5727
l Kolgans River Boat: 082 823 4231.
l Wine tasting at the Kranskop cellar or arrange a tour at any one of 50 local wineries.
l Van Loveren wine cellars has partnered with Montagne Cheese and Wine Deli to offer cheese and wine tastings. A wide variety of home-made cheeses is available. Light lunches are served at a rustic restaurant or you can picnic near a waterfall.
l Arrange an olive oil tasting at Igadi. Call 023 626 2028.
l Bird watch along the Fish Eagle Birding Route: Call 023 615 1505.
l Meander through the Langeberg Mountains on a tractor starting at Protea Farm. Potjiekos lunch included. Call 023 614 3012.
l Visit the national monuments and Cape Dutch architectural treasures at nearby Montagu.
l Treat yourself to a facial treatment and manicure at D’Vine. 023 626 3200.
l Or have either a hot stone massage or aromatherapy. Call 023 626 611.
l Take a horse and carriage tour. Call 072 291 7631. Horse riding lessons and holiday riding camps available.
l Visit the Soekershof Maze and Cactus Garden. Call 023 626 4134.
l And – a must – swim at the famous hot springs at Montagu.