The arrival of spring in the Western Cape heralds two magnificent natural phenomena, the two Ws, whales and wildflowers.
The wildflowers of the west coast and Cederberg regions have now erupted and millions of small flowers are transforming dry, usually barren valleys and fields into miraculous carpets of colour. And the Cape fynbos, in all its complexity of different species, is also in full display. GG has chosen a few special places to stay to enhance the experience.
Should you prefer to go east and spend some time watching the calving, mating, breaching, lob-tailing whales of Walker Bay then GG’s recommendations boast perhaps the best bedroom-based whale-watching in the world!
Why not go for the double in one trip?
Enjo Nature Farm
Biedouw Valley, Clanwilliam, Cederberg 027 482 2869
Descending into the Biedouw Valley is the New World of South Africa’s scenic symphonies: crashing mountains, sandstone cliffs, a vast plain of tawny yellow shot through with a river of green – not to mention spring’s blanket of flowers. It’s steering-wheel-gripping stuff. Moritz, a pilot (more on that later) and Andrea, a nurse, swooped into the valley from Munich five years ago and have so far conjured up three self-catering cottages, 350 sheep, a few hectares of olives and two happy little children.
The white-washed thatched cottages are buried down by the river. Inside, find simple beds with Andrea’s hand-sewn bedcovers, rough concrete shower rooms, kitchenettes. Older children can sleep on the mezzanine level.
Outside, a few wandering horses, the river, stone-built braais.
The accommodation maybe is basic but the setting is supreme and the Conrads are wonderful hosts. If the weather’s right Moritz can take you for a flip around the Cederberg in a four-seater plane; or you can wallow in the river, swim in the farm pool, relax in the hot tub, hike up through the valley, view rock art or even order a pair of hand-made leather shoes. Bring children, dogs and meat for the braai. Simple, natural, beautiful, and great value – I loved it.
Klein Boschkloof Chalets
Boskloof Road, Clanwilliam, Cederberg 027 482 2441
What a delightful arrival. Firstly the strong scent of Eleanore’s roses, then the walk along a cool green avenue of orange groves to three 250-year-old Cape Dutch farm buildings. Eleanore showed me around Die Stal, Die Ou Huis and Waenhuis; each conversion designed by her husband and resident-architect, Gilbert.
“He’s passionate about braaing,” confesses Eleanore, as I inspect the cooking facility in the lounge fireplace of Die Stal. Half-metre-thick clay brick walls, hand-made Batavian clay floor tiles and air-conditioning help to keep the chalets chilled on the steamiest of Clanwilliam days.
Ceilings and furniture are a collection of cedar, pine, yellowwood and imbuia woods, while leather sofas and old rugs enhance the homely vibe. Outside, each has its own stoep with seating under ancient vines and possessing bountiful braais (of course).
My guided tour ends at the farm dam pool, where brick terrace and loungers attract sun-worshippers while surrounding weeping boer-bean trees and giant strelitzias draw in the sunbirds.
“Sometimes the guests are swimming until eleven at night,” exclaims Eleanore. And with the opportunity for endless gazing at sunsets on the Cederberg Mountains and starlit skies, who could blame them?
Waterfall Farm
R303 6km from Citrusdal, Citrusdal, Cederberg 021 790 0972
Wow. It’s hard to write about Waterfall Farm without eulogising over a certain natural feature. In fact, my first instruction upon arrival was “you cannot leave without seeing the waterfall!” Luckily I didn’t.
Henry, resident expert on the farm’s fauna and flora and a very genial guide, showed me the way.
How I longed to shower in the white water cascading over sculpted cliffs, swim in the fresh-water mountain rock pools and picnic on surrounding white sandy beaches.
Away from this natural wonder the farm provides fantastic walks, breathtaking views across the Cederberg with their rich fynbos and spring flowers and enough naartjies to keep you in vitamin C for months. For those lucky enough to stay, the main house has a rambling lived-in feel and includes well-used sofas around an open fire. Outside, cricket-pitch-sized lawns are bordered by protea beds, oak and gum trees.
But it’s the thatched boma that really caught my eye. Here bookworms and siesta lovers will usurp the day beds and night-time revellers will light fires, cook and make merry under fairy-lights.
But whatever you do, don’t leave without seeing that waterfall! The house is a no-smoking zone.
Melkboomsdrift Guest Lodge
R363, Between Vredendal & Lutzville, West Coast 027 217 2624
An immeasurable pleasure to plunge into a cool sea of green vineyards after a hot day on the roads. A great pleasure, too, to pull into Melkboomsdrift wine farm and guest lodge, which stands on the banks of the Olifants River.
Hilsa had a vision when she bought the deserted farm and dilapidated 1820s homestead and outbuildings in 1991 (others said she was delirious), but tenacity won the day and the clay-and-mud house is now a gleaming white national monument.
Rooms mostly run off a vine-shaded patio facing a green garden whose lawns trickle down to the river. Rocks occasionally burst through delightfully wonky walls, ceilings are bamboo, some rooms have bathrooms cleverly hidden behind draped curtains and screens. ‘Perdestal’ has its original horse trough; while my room, ‘Voorkamer’, had an ornate iron and brass bed, blue velvet chaise-longue and granite-tiled shower.
Fast-forward two centuries to a smart upstairs dining area and bar under a V-shaped roof.
Hanika, the energetic, friendly manager, serves home-cooked dinners in the evenings and when they’re not sold out, you can taste Hilsa’s Harvest, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz.
Historical records show that Governor Simon van der Stel bedded down here in 1685 en route to Namaqualand. Now the journey is a day-trip; Strandfontein and Doornbaai beaches are closer still; and in spring, the miracle of the Namaqualand flowers come to you.
Sea Star Lodge
19 Ingang Street, De Kelders/Gansbaai, De Kelders, Overberg 028 384 0012
Approaching Sea Star Lodge, Ardi whisked me straight onto the roof, bubbles in hand, to watch the sun set over the Atlantic. I stood gawping at the evolving hues of Walker Bay and the Fynbos Nature Reserve behind us.
Darkness eventually won, but I would have happily lain under the blanket of sea stars all night had I not spied inside Sea Star’s rooms en route to the rooftop.
Ardi is a former policeman-turned-private detective from Munich, which might explain why he is such a stickler for privacy and perfection; nothing less will do. Uber-slick, luxurious rooms are utterly mod-conified (mine boasted a fully-stocked Nespresso machine), with blacked-out windows to stop peeping whales.
Extravagant ocean panoramas made up for the fact that my master suite bath, though vast, was the only tub lacking a sea view, but Ardi apologised regardless by cracking open a bottle of vintage dessert wine to share on the sweeping verandah.
Joining Moulin the dog by a toasty fire, Ardi filled me in on De Kelders’ clandestine pop-up restaurant, Klooks At Home; on the Durban artist whose fiery Kalahari paintings dot Sea Star’s walls; on his pilot pal Evan who takes guests bird’s-eye whale-spotting in his four-seater plane, African Wings… I wonder if Ardi would place me under house arrest?
Whalesong Lodge
83 Cliff St, De Kelders, Overberg 028 384 1865
“Almost forgot,” gasps Lainy, fleeing Whalesong’s sun-soaked, cliff-hanging balcony for her eat-your-heart-out-Nigella kitchen. She skips back to a gaggle of performing whales, overflowing with fluffy cappuccinos and chocolate cookies.
The Carpenters are foodies (and greenies) to a fault: herbs’n’veg grow behind the pool, eggs come from “a little farm up the road”, cheese from local cows, and a compost worm farm ensures near zero waste. Anything not gobbled up by thousands of little wrigglers is recycled religiously.
Lainy’s ethical yummies are sold both here and at Stanford market and guests are welcome to loiter in the kitchen where debates range from how to sweeten sugar-free apple cake to why their home-baked croissants and home-grown granadilla jam are so lip-smacking.
Upstairs, Whalesong is all about the water. Bright, modern, elegant rooms and clean-line bathrooms stare out to sea while cream walls are dotted with exposed brick and images of ocean life, boats, waves, breaching whales.
Photo-filled welcome packs swell with shark-diving, whale-watching and kayaking for adventurous souls, but land-lovers should ask Stanley about fynbos trails and beach walks.
Schulphoek Seafront Guesthouse
44 Marine Drive, Sandbaai, Hermanus, Overberg 028 316 2626
My heart sinks straight to the ocean floor as I wander through Schulphoek and remember I’m not spending the night. All of a sudden the verdant vegetable gardens, the daily home-made cakes, the sunny salt-water pool, the sumptuous mahogany bedrooms and the deep-set squidgy sofas in the luxurious, gold-tinted guest lounge (all of which offer front-row whale-spotting) seem to tease me.
And then Petro utters five unforgettable words: “Stay for dinner, at least?”
Schulphoek suppers are events. The full house sit at a long, oak dining table and as an amouse-bouche, we’re led into a vast wine cellar, home to some 12 000 bottles, to pick our accompanying wine. Which grape complements spicy butternut soup and succulent seared yellowtail, I wonder?
Mannes nudges me towards a crisp sauvignon blanc and ensures my glass is never wanting as we chew the cud about Stony Point’s penguins, France (three families here are French) and September’s Whale Festival. After dinner, I yearn to sneak upstairs to Scallop (the magisterial suite occupying the entire first floor with panoramic ocean vistas and its own telescope!) and snuggle into the gargantuan bed, or to hide under bubbles in a two-person spa bath. Alas, I must say goodbye.
Wonderlings B&B
Camp Rd, Rooi Els, Overberg 028 273 8961
If anything could top the pleasure of driving here from Cape Town via one of South Africa’s most spectacular coastal roads, it’s waking, as I did to the sight of a whale breaching in the ocean.
And if it’s not whale season, there are plenty of other gems of nature to feast your eyes on, whether it’s spring flowers spreading over the khaki fynbos of the mountains that loom behind the house (part of the Kogelberg Nature Reserve); or even the baboons that live in near-harmony with residents of this tiny seaside village; or the simple, stunning sight of the sun, which follows the voluptuous apricot curves of the house from east to west.
Inside are yet more gorgeous landscapes, as Jenny has an eye for original art. It’s hard to say which is the best. I loved the blood-red luxury of Protea, complete with full kitchen and living room.
If you order breakfast, it’s delivered to your door in quaint hotel-style. The place is a few minutes from Pringle Bay and as homely as can be, but you feel as though you’re perched on the fringes of the wild. It’s all really rather wonderlings. - Sunday Tribune