Cape Town - My winding way from the Klein Karoo to the coast took me past vast wheat and dazzling canola fields and one or two wineries – Raka and neighbouring BoschRivier were worth a stop.
Then it was the picturesque village of Stanford and on to the coast.
Skirting the busy centre of Hermanus, I arrived at On The Cliff guest house. Parking is around the back, where I found owners Charmaine and Hylton Leafwright busy with their pride and joy – not their lovely home but a long wheelbase Land Rover. They have other lives – 4x4 safaris – and were making ready for an Okavango trip (so very jealous).
That’s not to say the Leafwrights aren’t justifiably proud of their sprawling double-storey four-star guesthouse. On The Cliff is perfect for all seasons, with upstairs and downstairs lounges with fireplaces, an upstairs pub with fireplace and TV – and an honesty bar system.
There are seven luxurious bedrooms and a penthouse suite – all sea facing and decorated in different styles with top notch everything.
There’s also a sunny courtyard with a salt water pool for those days when the wind is up. It wasn’t and I stepped out over the road and onto the lovely cliff path above Walker Bay.
It’s much shorter to the town centre and old harbour via the path than the road. It’s much prettier too, with sheer drops to the crashing waves, daisies and wildflowers aplenty, and inviting paths with interesting names such as Tamatiebank and Preekstoel.
On The Cliff has bicycles too – perfect for the relatively flat shorefront terrain.
The Southern Right whale visits Hermanus from the end of May to the end of November and if there are any about, you are guaranteed to see them from the hotel. But Charmaine had something better in mind and I was thrilled to don my lifejacket and get on board with Hermanus Whale Cruises. I was more thrilled when we found ourselves surrounded by whales at close quarters.
Hermanus has so much to offer – shark cage diving, sea kayaking, quad biking, paragliding (no experience is necessary for tandem paragliding), wining and dining, plus well organised events and festivals almost every month.
Lounging on my balcony was also lovely, a couple of days too short a stay, but I had one more stop on my Cape Country Routes roadtrip.
It’s about an hour and a half to Stellenbosch – or two if you go via the Theewaterskloof Dam and the Franschhoek valley. Either way, it’s a visual treat.
I’ve visited Stellenbosch often but never stayed in the town. The welcome from Sarita Booysen and porter Barend Malgas, of Evergreen Manor and Spa, bode well for my stay at this gracious five-star beauty.
Owner Riël Meynhardt has carefully restored, upgraded and expanded what was a boarding house in 1904 – and it shows.
My lovely upstairs room was cosy yet luxurious, with twin basins in the bathroom and underfloor heating for winter. Doors opened onto a little balcony with views over the pool and through the oaks to the adjacent buildings – one housing the spa.
I didn’t see the inside of the spa as Riël arranged a Vinehopper tour. What an excellent idea.
Friendly, entertaining Clayton King collected me – and others – and we visited several estates. Neethlingshof and Bilton were the most memorable.
It’s a great, companionable way to enjoy fine wines and the drive while learning a bit about your surroundings.
I also took in my surroundings on foot (there is a walking tour too). The Botanical Gardens is a three-minute stroll from Evergreen and the vibrant, old town with its many restaurants and historical landmarks is all doable on foot.
All too soon I was saying my goodbyes and heading home after a fabulous 11 days amid some of South Africa’s finest scenery.
l Visit www.capecountryroutes.com, started in 1997, to plan your Western and Eastern Cape adventures.
Adrian Rorvik, Sunday Tribune
First Car Rental is proud to be the car hire company of choice to drive the Sunday Tribune’s Adrian Rorvik to experience the best in luxury lifestyle. Adrian visited the stunning On The Cliff Guest House, a luxurious, sea-facing boutique hotel with endless whale watching opportunities, and the historic Evergreen Manor, a magnificent Victorian villa in the heart of Stellenbosch. Experience Hermanus and Stellenbosch with First Car Rental – www.firstcarrental.co.za