Crete is far too mountainous for cycling, was the refrain from well-travelled cognoscenti. Guide books warned of congested roads and inconsiderate drivers.
However, we had completed several cycle tours in Europe and needed a new destination.
As our flight approached Athens, we glimpsed our destination and our hearts sank as a high mountain chain – the island of Crete – rose up from the sea. Could we possibly cycle here? The Athens metro took us to the ferry terminal at Piraeus.
Our senses were assaulted by the hot, humid air as our ferry docked at Iraklion, the “capital” of Crete.
Heading along the coast to our first night’s accommodation, we experienced the usual cyclists’ annoyances – bulleting buzz-bikes, kamikaze quad bikes, and braggadocio motorbike riders.
Island drivers also block traffic if they feel like stopping, and obeying robots is optional. The campground was on a beautiful beach, and relatively empty. Christina, the camp manager, welcomed us warmly. It had been a quiet season and this could account for the friendly service we encountered throughout Crete. With spirits lifted, we set up our tent.
A visit to the Lasithi Plateau loomed large on our itinerary and is recommended for cyclists. Christina seemed hesitant when we proposed pedalling up to the plateau, but nevertheless, she agreed to have an early breakfast ready.
The climb to the plateau was taxing. Passing through a gap in the mountains we gazed down on a plain with neat farmlands ringed by majestic mountains. Narrow roads traversed the plateau and we cycled past squat, dormant windmills defiant against the mountain backdrop. Mules worked the fields and a farmer rode by on a donkey.
The next day we were greeted by a surprised Christina, who by now was convinced we’d lost our way. After a relaxing swim we sipped local beer in the camp taverna and watched as anglers, silhouetted by a glorious sunset, cast into the balmy Mediterranean.
Christina showed us a scenic coastal route into Iraklio. We hankered after the Cretan countryside, however, so after bussing to Rythemno, we pedalled across the central mountain range to the south coast. After hard cycling we exited a tunnel to a view of fertile valleys backed by an azure-blue of the Libyan Sea. We cycled around the small harbours with fishing nets hung out to dry and there were idyllic coves to sunbath and swim. Evenings were spent in beachside tavernas savouring fresh seafood.
Cycling further afield from our base in Plakias, we found the monastery at Preveli. Perched over the ocean, Moni Preveli gained fame for assisting Allied troops during World War II to reach safety across the Libyan Sea. Tales abound of clandestine rendezvous with British submarines which surfaced murkily offshore.
We battled the “meltemi” – ferocious winds. These “katabolic” wind-storms occasionally knocked us off our bicycles, often dangerously close to cliff edges.
Iraklio and Rethymno towns maintain their rustic appeal. The Venetian-built fortresses grace fishing harbours, brimful with colourful boats. Through an open doorway in one of the narrow streets of the Venetian-Ottoman quarter, we found a family making hand-drawn phylo pastry. The skill of producing the paper-thin pastry is passed down through generations and this family readily demonstrated their unusual craft.
We noticed a T-sheet emblazoned with “Ooh, ah, Malia”. When our daughter joined us for a weekend we decided to go explore. We hired a bicycle for her. The “strip” of Malia is dotted with tavernas and a partying vibe. Here, and even at midday, the streets reverberated with amplified rock music. By the time we returned to Iraklio, we were immune to congested traffic and inconsiderate drivers. We saw only the broad vistas of endless beaches sandwiched between blue seas and bare mountains. With heavy hearts we boarded our ferry to the mainland, and decided we would give a qualified “certainly” to anyone planning to tour Crete on a bicycle.
Additional information:
l Minimally dismantled and packed bicycles, cost no extra charge on BA flights from London to Athens if its falls within the baggage allowance.
l Bicycles are transported free of charge on ferries from Piraeus to Crete or can be hired at virtually every beach resort.
l Cycle tours, see www.4hersonissos.gr or www.backroads.com - Weekend Argus