SECRET DINER: Authentic flavours at Big Fat Greek eatery

Nikos Coalgrill Greek

Where:

54 Adelaide Tambo Drive, Durban North

Open:

Sunday to Thursday noon to 9pm, Friday and Saturday noon to 10pm

Call:

031 007 0375

When Nikos first opened, I was impressed by the authenticity of its flavours. It concentrated on doing simple Greek food and keeping prices down. And it did it exceptionally well.

I really liked their punchy hummus and the minty tzatziki. The beef fillet skewers, too, were excellent, cooked on charcoal, and the portion was generous.

So when I found myself starving at 8pm, in the Durban North area, I was pleased to pop in for a quick pick-me-up.

The menu has extended a bit, but the basic good value is very much there - and it showed - the restaurant was buzzing.

There is a scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding where “Toula” tells a bevy of Greek aunts, slaving in the kitchen, that her new man is a vegetarian. “Oh, he’ll eat lamb,” a bewildered aunt replies, which sort of sums up a cuisine perceived to be heavy on seafood and lamb.

But Nikos has some interesting vegetarian options, which go beyond the conventional spanakopita, although these are good, and all meat-eaters should try them.

There’s a loaded hummus with pomegranate, red onion, feta, pine kernels and chickpeas, or a loaded skordalia with sautéed mushrooms. An interesting brinjal mezze includes lentils, white beans and minted tzatziki in a napoli sauce. Also new on the menu is roasted cauliflower with burnt butter, sage and pine kernels. It looked good at the table next door.

I opted for pulled lamb kleftiko with mint leaves, tzatziki, tomatoes and red onion served in a home-made pita pita (R95), which was very good and more than I could eat.

I ordered a side of zucchini fries (R44), which were nice and crisp. I wish more establishments would do them like this.

And even with what is essentially your basic Greek wrap, there are vegetarian options - with falafels, or chickpeas and brinjals in a spicy sauce, or with halloumi, Aegean slaw and hummus.

For dessert, I looked no further than the galaktoboureko (R60) - a fancy name for what is essentially a phyllo pastry custard pie, filled with custard and served warm, topped with a spicy burnt orange syrup. This went down a treat. I also liked the sauce, which was unusual. These are usually simply dusted in icing sugar.

Previously I’ve had their Greek doughnuts, soaked in syrup and rolled in nuts - these are worth trying.

It was all washed down with a proper Greek coffee.