Joe Yonan
There are two ways to look at leafy greens. Well, probably many more than two, but for my argument I’m going to skip all the nuances and talk about the extremes.
One way is to concentrate solely on their health benefits, which are many and which is why greens are so often referred to as “superfoods”, a designation I like to avoid using because I think it encourages focus on single ingredients as magic pills, rather than a holistic approach to eating that incorporates lots of foods, some more “super” than others.
The other way to look at greens is to focus on their versatility and deliciousness.
Let’s bring those two perspectives to bear in this recipe, a gloriously messy, tasty affair from brilliant Atlanta chef Steven Satterfield. In his new book, “Vegetable Revelations”, he writes that he served this Greens Grilled Cheese as a vegetarian option when his restaurant Miller Union was open for lunch, “and you could often find me scarfing one down in the back between shifts. It’s that kind of healthy-meets-decadent mash-up that I can’t resist”.
Greens Grilled Cheese
Satterfield description of the sandwich – “healthy-meets-decadent mash-up” – is true. Use a mix of greens if possible. These sandwiches are large, half of one is plenty. Because the bread slices are so thick, the oven helps melt the cheese.
4 servings
Active time: 45 minutes. Total time: 55 minutes.
Storage note: Best eaten when freshly made, but you can refrigerate for up to three days and rewarm in the oven.
INGREDIENTS
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
1 small red onion (140g), cut into 1/4 -inch dice
1/2 tsp fine salt, plus more to taste
Water, as needed
1 large bunch (340g) hardy greens (kale, spinach, chard, mustard greens or a mix), washed, stemmed and chopped
Four (2.5cm) large slices country-style sourdough bread
170g smoked Gouda, thinly sliced
170g aged white Cheddar, thinly sliced
2 tbs mayonnaise
2 tbs unsalted butter, divided
DIRECTIONS
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 160ºC.
In a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the onion and salt and cook, stirring often, until the onions turn translucent, 4 to 6 minutes.
Add a splash of water and then, working in batches, enough greens to fill the pan. Cook, stirring often, until the greens are wilted down enough to add more. Keep adding the greens and cooking them down until they are all wilted, adding another splash of water to help steam the greens as they cook down. Cook until most of the moisture has evaporated and the greens are tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Taste, and season with more salt as needed.
Lay the bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet and divide the sliced cheeses evenly among them. Bake for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the cheese is just melty.
Remove from the oven and divide the greens among two of the bread slices, covering the cheese. Cover with the other two bread slices, cheese side down, and press the sandwiches together. Spread the mayo on the outside of both the top and bottom of each sandwich (to help form a crust when they're pan-fried).
Wipe the skillet out to remove any greens residue and return it to medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, swirling it to melt and coat the pan, and place the sandwiches in the skillet. Set another skillet (or similar flat, heavy object) on top of them to weigh them down for even cooking. Cook until they are nicely browned on the bottom, then flip and repeat, adding the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and weighing them down again. Cook until the second side is nicely browned. Cut each sandwich in half and serve hot.
Adapted from "Vegetable Revelations" by Steven Satterfield (Harper Wave, 2023).Tested by Joe Yonan.
The Independent on Saturday